Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Sula Vineyard

We took a family trip to Sula Vineyard over the weekend. A bit of a rough trip, we were all car sick, Maks having the worst of it, actually getting sick, poor guy. He was a trooper and as we cleared the last mountain pass, things seemed brighter. As we approached the vineyard, a calm was in the air, it was absolutely stunning. Mountains framing an endless lake that met over 2000 acres of pristine and perfectly kept grape vines. It was incredibly impressive. Happy to get out of the car, we roamed the fabulous grounds of the hotel, swam, had a wonderful lunch and then prepared to tour Sula Vineyard and Winery. This is the largest wine facility I have been in. Again, the size and equipment was impressive for such a young winery. It appeared to me during the tour that they are catering to an audience that does not know much about wine. We had a great time, had a chance to taste a few wines and stomp some grapes. The grape juice was fabulous.....and the return ride back to Mumbai was MUCH more gentle!

Street Crossing

Interesting day....I picked up some tailor work that I had done with my sari, found some lovely chocolates and bakery to surprise Jen and Maks (Valentine's Day) and then was hit by a moped while crossing the street. I am all right, just a large welt and nasty bruise in the works but the whole thing had me furious for a little bit. Had to walk it off.
Now this is the street that has three "lanes" marked going each way but actually has six lanes of vehicles (mopeds, motorbikes, buses, trucks, cars, cabs, rickshaws....) careening and jostling each way down the strip of road, horns blaring the whole time. The moped driver said he was really sorry but he was using his horn. This almost had me laughing. It doesn't matter that everyone is blaring their horns at ALL times, I am deafened by horns and that it is then all right to hit a person instead of using the brakes. Hmmm. After many angry words and arm flaying from both of us, he drove off after we obviously were not going to have a way to settle it. He actually said he would drive me to the police station and motioned for me to hop on the moped. He didn't realize how crazy that was after he just HIT me, yea, like now I was going to go for a ride with him.
The irony of all of this is that I actually made it across the road and walking along when I was hit from behind and two other people were kind of a buffer....
I am not short of story material, that is for sure.....

Monday, February 13, 2012

Goa

Goa is incredible. India is such a vast country in every way. Goa offers breathtaking beaches, crazy busy beaches, turtles, spice plantations, conservation areas, elephants, colorful markets, rockin' night clubs and very friendly chatty people. The waters are blue and warm but not too warm, sandy beaches and a place to sit and enjoy the best food I have had in India and a cold cocktail everywhere. My favorite place was Brittos, one of the original restaurants on the beach and came highly recommended, which I know why, it was fabulous~

The absolutely lovely bungalow I stayed in was on Baga Beach which is like the tropical beach on steroids. I arrived and it was full peak crazy, boats zooming around dragging people on tubs, parasails everywhere, nets being thrown out by people fishing, tables and umbrellas out with young men trying to encourage you to have a seat at one and enjoy a drink or maybe some food? The beach was lined with these restaurants and available lounge chairs. I walked a ways and found a quiet strip of beach that became my place to be and swim.

I met so many young men who felt obliged I guess to walk along with me and learned so much about the ways of India for these young men. I hadn't met people who were so open and talkative until Goa. They all commented on how quiet they thought I was, which of course I thought was funny. I enjoyed their stories.

After dark the lounge chairs disappear to be replaced with clothed tables, chairs and candlelight for evening cocktails and dining. I enjoyed this, sitting so close to the waves that they lapped my bare feet while enjoying a nightcap and watching fireworks....

Anjuna market was a BLAST. It is known to be a touristy market but I had to experience it for how famous it is. The largest market I have seen and right above the beach. After dark it switches to amazing music. I listened to an incredible sitar band, and on the other side a young woman in complete "hippy" attire rocked out to Janis Joplin songs. I met people from all over India and Europe.

I visited the Arya Cashew Factory where we saw the whole process of the cashew from harvest, roasting, shelling, scraping the skin, many quality control sorting and the final nut ready to eat. Each step done by the individual nut by the hands of women.

The next day was the organic Sahakari Spice Plantation and Elephants. This blew me away. Not only have I learned an incredible amount regarding the local spices, I was able to hear the extraordinaire stories behind the three elephants who reside there. The Elephants migrate and at times will be separated from their herd. There are people who monitor this as best they can to prevent poaching. They bring the elephants to the place they are migrating to and work for five years each to reintroduce them to a herd. If they are rejected, then they are brought to Southern India to the temples where they are treated like gods and hand fed by the women who tend the temples. They will remain the god of these temples or be able to roam conservation areas like this spice plantation. The conservation areas will not take more elephants then the land can maintain. The elephants work a few days a week giving short rides and get washed by us, and then give us a bath, which is a complete riot. I have always dreamt of being this close to an elephant so I was beside myself with excitement and joy.....

I Loved Goa!!

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Sounds of Mumbai

Which hour of the day do I start to describe the sounds of Mumbai when Mumbai never sleeps?
The dogs barking wildly (which even on the 24th floor, they miraculously sound as if they are right outside the window) and the rooster usually wake me around 3 am and I then hear the horns and rickshaw motors. At 6am the first Islamic call to prayer of the day can be heard.....then at about daybreak the pounding will begin, constant pounding and the horns start in at a decibel that if you cannot tune it out, it will drive you mad. The dog barking is now replaced with the roar of traffic, rickshaws, horns and pounding that is continuous throughout the day. If you are inside, add random ringing of the various doorbells and dragging of chairs across marble floors. When you hit the streets for a walk, the horns and pounding are magnified. So much so that you may not hear the Islamic call to prayer that continue throughout they day. I usually hear the one at about 6pm.....

The traffic, horns and rickshaw motors go thru the night, at 9:30 last night the pounding was still going. This also sounds as if right outside the door. I can hear chairs being dragged across the marble floors in the other apartments since I know we are all in bed.....The dogs may start at midnight or 3am, depending on what is going on in their dog world. I am not using my earplugs to sleep any longer which means I will sleep like the dead when I return home. I tend to wake up frequently, with the shades drawn it doesn't seem dark unless you go out for a walk, then it seems very much so.

I have heard that people from Mumbai feel lonely if they leave the city. The quiet leaves them empty. My first day, after just a couple hour walk I had to draw the shades and lay on the bed in the dark room, my head hurt so bad. I spoke to some expats who didn't even leave their apartment the first month they were so overwhelmed. A few times the first few days I felt the rise of anxiety with the noise and just tried to keep calm and grounded. Jen said and I agree, how important meditation and yoga is to a place like this. To help remain centered in all the chaos. There is a free yoga class at 6am each morning that I am attending. It is fun, the people are very kind and helpful if I hesitate to watch some of the stretches since I do not know Hindi. I am having a great time here in India. It challenges and conjures so many emotions each day. I embrace being in a place that has such an impact.

Monday, January 30, 2012

Laughter Meditation

"There is a story, in Japan, of the laughing Buddha, Hotei. His whole teaching was just laughter. He would move from one place to another, from one marketplace to another marketplace. He would stand in the middle of the market and start laughing...that was his sermon.

His laughter was catching, infectious; a REAL laughter, his whole belly pulsating with the laughter, shaking with laughter. He would roll on the ground with laughter. People who would collect together, they would start laughing, and then the laughter would spread, and tidal waves of laughter, and the whole village would be overwhelmed with laughter.

People used to wait for Hotei to come to their village because he brought such joy, such blessings. He never uttered a single word, never. You asked about Buddha and he would laugh; you asked about enlightenment and he would laugh; you asked about truth and he would laugh. Laughter was his only message."

I had read this in Osho's book of meditation before joining the much awaited laughter meditation. I thought of how wonderful this would be....of course, now if I attempted to just start laughing in a marketplace with no words, I would be dragged off to the funny farm....now that would be the laugh....


I am in love love love with laughter meditation. It is perfect. Just laughing. This session at Osho was 20 minutes of laughter and then 15 minutes silent meditation (still filled with random giggles which I was guilty of) and then, of course, more dancing. I had read about laughter meditation years ago and was curious and wondered if it would be a room of people straining to laugh. It was incredible, I wanted MORE. Not only was it not difficult to keep laughing, I really couldn't stop, with tears streaming down my face. We were to keep our eyes closed, for the laughter to be OUR laughter, not us laughing at anyone else. But I have to say, at a "dry" moment, I peeked and to see everyone else with their head thrown back in full laughter and some rolling on the floor, this made me so happy, I couldn't stop laughing once again. There is something phenomenal about being in a huge auditorium of people splitting their sides in laughter. For the first time, I had faith in complete strangers.

Year of the Dragon

The year of the Dragon is considered the luckiest year in the Chinese Zodiac. 2012 is the Water Dragon, water calms the Dragon's fire which can be a good thing. In just this one week, this year of the Dragon has been more than spectacular. I indeed feel lucky, I hope it continues for myself and every one of you.

I ventured out on the streets of Mumbai on foot again today. I am feeling more confident in exploring every nook which you need to do here, it is the nooks that hold some of the most interesting shops and people. You wouldn't EVER think something like that would be there but once you walk down a small crack of an ally, it opens into a whole world of colorful things. The incredibly intense gawking I attract doesn't even bother me anymore. I must be getting somewhat accustomed to the heat also, it seemed as if I wasn't sweating as much, which is really noticeable when you see everyone bundled up with scarves, long sleeves and sweaters and here I am soaked.....

Today I explored foodie things, more spices, teas, Indian bakeries and stainless steel cookware. The pans used here are fun and much different than I have seen so I wanted to check them out. My sister does not live in a touristy area so the prices are incredible and the shop keeper gave me a discount when I told him I was the one who would be using the pans. They loved that, wanted to know where I was staying, my name, brought me savory lassi and when I said I was okay and didn't need anything to drink, they insisted and said I was their guest! Shopping here is an extraordinary experience. The kindness is amazing.

I didn't recognize a thing at the bakery so the man offered me samples of everything, again, amazing....all these chewy almond, pistachio, date, fig fudge~y treats that he packed into an adorable little box.

I found the "expat" store that I had read about. I wanted to purchase chocolate chips to bake some cookies for Maks and Jen. They are the tiniest chocolate chips in the tiniest package, one ounce. The man said he had them at his other store and if I could wait 5 minutes, he would have them here, no problem. The store was Indian as well as western so I was more than happy checking everything else out until the chocolate chips arrived.

I saw the restaurant named Royal Challenge which of course cracks me up. Vladimir said it was a good place to eat so I will have to try it....

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Swathed in vibrant cloth euphoria

My amazing sister Jen and her wonderful friend Nandi took me sari shopping yesterday. I am typically not a "shopper" sort of person but this was a joyful and extraordinaire experience. Nandi knew the best shop and it truly was a blast. The service in India is incredible, the impossibly small shop is full of the three of us and twice as many people there to take your bag, make you tea, bring bottled water and lay out an abundant array of the most amazing colored cloth in all combinations of cotton, silk and synthetic fabric, you barely get a glimpse and another is piled on top, if you didn't realize already, your mind is now boggled with the endless choices you have. Then there is the "trying on" which consists of you standing there with your arms up, a curtain has been drawn to cover the entrance and you are wrapped up, of course not before feeling a bit exposed, in this luxurious fabric. They have the perfect match of top and petticoat, stress how important the folds are and how to manage it. It all goes so quickly and then the mirror, yep, I LOVED it. I have the perfect sari and feel lavishly wrapped in the color that brings utter joy.

Photos soon to follow.....